Monday 13 July 2015

The Kingdom


The Black Valley picnic spot
While staying down in Cork for a while earlier in May we took a family day out to explore the bouldering in Kerry. I was blown away by the quality of the rock and the beauty of the landscape.


We took a chance and despite a poor weather forecast we headed straight for the Black Valley. One of the main reasons we decided to head here was that despite being further than the bouldering in the Gap of Dunloe, it had a reputation of being quieter and very child friendly. It didn't disappoint and the weather held out, turning into an amazing day.
 


First up we parked by a small lake and walked 50m to a small stone sheep pen surrounding a lovely leaning boulder. Just the kind I like :) This was Sherpa Tenzing and was recommended as a classic of the area - in all fairness it's probably an Irish classic. Great moves on great holds. This was our first bouldering trip with the whole family and it was a bit of a challenge. entertaining the kids while keeping them safe meant that I had to forget about spotting (or being spotted) - it was a case of just climbing something when you got a chance. Luckily I was hooked on first sight with this boulder. I warmed up and checked out the holds from the ground before going for a flash attempt. The start position is a bit compact but that suits me fine although you do have to concentrate on not dabbing the foundation "cheat stone". The first move is up and left to a good crimp, from here you have to swap feet and set up for the crux throw to a choice of crimps up and right. This second move spat me off so I started to work it out.


I was getting a bit disheartened with my lack of progress on this move - the crimp felt miles away and I couldn't imagine holding the swing from a cut loose. So without wanting to go away empty handed I tried the stand start... and climbed straight to the top 1st try. Now I was excited! If only I could figure out that second move. The breakthrough came when Dave was giving me abuse for forgetting about the hold I HAD and focusing on the one I didn't have yet. With that in mind I set up and threw for the crimp but locked down on the left hold. I hit the crimp, controlled the swing and went straight to the top of the boulder in a blur.


I was so happy to have persevered with this and figured it out. For a while I was thinking it would take a few sessions and then BAM! I went back and climbed it a second time so that Dave could get some pictures. Once the move is unlocked, it's in there. What a great problem!
 


There is a lot of rock in Kerry!



Matilda and I all packed up and ready for rock while the boys take pictures
Spurred on from my success on Sherpa Tenzing Dave suggested  try another classic - the infamous Boneyard Arete. Oh boy! I was drawn in by the rock and the setting. The approach felt a lot more epic requiring us to cross some boggy wet hillside with pads, lunch and kids. For such a small walk, it felt like an expedition. The problem was worth it though. It climbs through a steep prow on some amazing holds before transitioning onto a slab from hell requiring some serious bone-ing on some of the smallest, sharpest crimps I've ever seen. Before long I had climbed the stand start from just under the lip of the roof a couple of times and began working the sit. The sit start begins matching a flat sloper with both hands and right heel. Maybe we needed more pads but for my height I found just getting off the ground and into the starting position nails. Once I could pull on the first move up and left to a small but positive edge went easily enough. The next move however was the crux and involved locking the left hand and releasing the right hand from the starting shelf. This took AGES! I felt like I was getting no where fast and then a weird body position just clicked and I began to stick the move. No sooner had I figured it out and fallen off the top out from the sit when the rain came in over the waterfall and across the valley. That was that for today.

 
I realised that even if the rain hadn't come in I was getting fatigued on this boulder. The powerful spans and tension required to execute the first 3 moves really took it's toll on me and highlighted a weakness. Power endurance. I fell off the top moves that I could repeat easily when fresh due to only a few intense complicated moves. Interesting. I'll have to work on that. Once the rain passed we got back to exploring the kiddy bouldering potential and Dave took his turn on the rock to climb a cool looking problem nearby. The kids loved it and probably got more climbing in than either of us! All in all as a first family bouldering adventure it was great - I can't wait for more!

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